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Directory: Catalog > Water
Heaters > Bosch Tankless Water
Heaters
Bosch
ProTankless™ GWH 425 EF Gas Tankless Water Heater
Please note: If you are unable to perform the tasks listed
below or need additional assistance, please contact your original installer/licensed
gas technician. For indoor installation only.
No Spark At Pilot?
- Verify the ON/OFF switch located behind the flip down cover plate is set to
the ON position.

- Verify power to the outlet where the unit is plugged in (120VAC/60Hz).
- Confirm the cold water supply is connected to the right side of heater
- Close installer supplied cold water shut off valve (if none installed, install
before proceeding). Open all hot water taps supplied by the heater. Wait 5 minutes
and check all taps. Any water running is a sign of a plumbing crossover. Consult
local plumber or service person for help correcting a plumbing crossover.
- Verify flow through the water heater is sufficient. Turn temperature adjustment
knob all the way clockwise. Fully open a hot water faucet and fill a quart container.
If the container fills in 30 seconds or less, the flow rate (1/2 gallons per minute)
is sufficient to activate the water heater.
- If flow rate is not sufficient, inspect the water path outside the heater
for obstructions. Make sure all outlets (i.e. showerheads, faucet aerators) and
whole house filters are clear of debris. Also, the water heater’s inlet filter
should be inspected and cleaned. See: TWH G1-12 Cleaning Inlet Filter.
- Microswitch may be out of adjustment and may need calibration. See: TWH G1-14
Microswitch Calibration.
- Confirm wire connections on the ECO/overheat sensor (located on the hot water
outlet pipe) and the flue gas sensor (located on the right hand side of draft
diverter) are secure. Inspect terminals for corrosion. To clean terminals, remove
the spade connectors (note: flue sensor spades not removable) and clean with a
pencil eraser.
- The water valve assembly, which actuates the microswitch for ignition, requires
periodic maintenance (every 2-5 years depending on water quality and use). Purchase
water valve rebuild kit to service the water valve.
Spark Appears When Hot Water Is Turned
On, But Pilot And Burners Will Not Ignite?
- Verify gas type indicated in the rating sticker located on the cover’s right
hand side, coincides with the gas type you are using. NG is a natural gas unit
and LP is for liquid propane.
- If the unit was just installed or the gas lines have been worked on, there
may be air in the gas line. Bleed out the air trapped in the gas line by turning
the hot water faucet on and off until the pilot flame/burners ignite. (Please
note: depending on how much air is in the line this could take numerous cycles
of turning the faucet on and off)
- Confirm wire connection to the pilot electrovalve is secured (see components
diagram in the back of manual for location of pilot electrovalve). Inspect terminals
for corrosion. To clean terminals, remove the spade connectors and clean with
a pencil eraser.
- Open a hot water faucet. While sparking, hold a flame from a lit match or
lighter in the pilot area. If the pilot successfully lights, the pilot orifice
may be dirty or clogged. See: TWH G1-15 Cleaning Spark Pilot Assembly.
- Verify gas supply is on at Natural Gas meter or Propane tank. Make sure all
manual gas shut off valves are in the open position. Have a licensed gas technician
confirm adequate gas pressure at the inlet tap. See: TWH G1-04 Checking Gas Pressure.
- If gas is not present, verify manufacturer supplied Maxitrol regulator is
in the upright position. The arrow on the back of the regulator should point in
the same direction as gas flow.
- Electric control box or pilot electrovalve maybe defective (see components
diagram in back of manual for location of pilot electrovalve) Verify adequate
voltage at the spade connection of the pilot electrovalve. When sparking, voltage
should read 1.3VDC. If voltage is proper, pilot electrovalve is defective. If
voltage is not proper, electronic control box is defective. Contact Technical
Support 866-330-2730 for replacement part.
Pilot Sparks Continuously With No Water
Running?
- If no water is running, but the pilot electrode continuously sparks, then
the micro- switch is out adjustment and needs to be calibrated. See: TWH G1-14
Microswitch calibration.
Pilot Lights But Burners Will Not Come
On?
- Verify gas type indicated in the rating sticker located on the cover’s right
hand side, coincides with the gas type you are using. NG is a natural gas unit
and LP is for liquid propane.
- Pilot flame should be blue in color and completely engulfing the flame sensor.
If not, the pilot orifice may be dirty or clogged. See: G1-15 Cleaning Spark Pilot
Assembly.
- Flame sensor not recognizing pilot flame. Verify wire connection to the bottom
of the flame sensor is secure. If flame sensor is fully engulfed by the pilot
flame, it may be dirty. Clean entire surface area of flame sensor with a pencil
eraser. (Improper venting can be a cause of a dirty flame sensor. Ensure the venting
is in accordance with requirements in the installation manual.)
- Inspect the water path outside the heater for obstructions. Make sure all
outlets (i.e. showerheads, faucet aerators) and whole house filters are clear
of debris. Also, the water heater’s inlet filter should be inspected and cleaned.
See: TWH G1-12 Cleaning Inlet Filter.
- Confirm wire connection to the burner electrovalve is secured (see components
diagram in the back of manual for location of burner electrovalve). Inspect terminals
for corrosion. To clean terminals, remove the spade connectors and clean with
a pencil eraser.
- The water valve assembly, which allows gas flow to the burners, requires periodic
maintenance (every 2-5 years depending on water quality and use). Purchase water
valve rebuild kit to service the water valve.
- Electric control box, burner electrovalve or flame sensor maybe damaged/defective.
Verify adequate voltage at the spade connection of the burner electrovalve (see
components diagram in the back of manual for location of burner electrovalve).
After the pilot lights, voltage should read 1.3VDC on the burner electrovalve.
If voltage is proper, the burner electrovalve is defective. If voltage is not
proper, electronic control box or the flame sensor is damaged/defective. Contact
Technical Support (800) 642-3111 for replacement parts.
Main Burners Go Out During Hot Water
Use?
- Hot water flow rate dropping below required activation flow rate. Turn temperature
adjustment knob all the way clockwise. Fully open a hot water faucet and fill
a quart container. If the container fills in 30 seconds or less, the flow rate
(1/2 gallon per minute) is sufficient to activate the water heater. If flow rate
is not sufficient, the water heater’s inlet filter should be inspected and cleaned.
See: G1-12 Cleaning Inlet Filter.
- Close installer supplied cold water shut off valve (if none installed, install
before proceeding). Open all hot water taps supplied by the heater. Wait 5 minutes
and check all taps. Any water running is a sign of a plumbing crossover. Consult
local plumber or service person for help correcting a plumbing crossover.
- The minimum water pressure for the home should be 30psi or greater. For installation
on a private well system with use of a pressure tank, the lowest pressure range
setting recommended is 30-50 psi (2.07-3.45 bar).
- Hot water is very hot out of the tap, requiring a lot of cold water to be
added with it in order to attain a useable hot water temperature. The addition
of too much cold will overpower and slow the flow within the tankless heater,
decreasing it below activation point, which shuts off the burners. The end result
is nothing but cold water coming out of the outlet. See: TWH G1-06 Overcoming
Fluctuating Temperatures and TWH G1-07 Lowering Temperature.
- The overheat sensor (ECO) is tripped. The water heater does not have a thermostat.
If the inlet water is preheated, the unit will overheat, stopping the flow of
gas. Plumb inlet with cold water only. The 125BS model may be used for certain
solar preheated applications. See: 125BS Manual (English PDF).
- Flue gas sensor is tripped. Lack of adequate combustion air or failure to
vent properly by reducing pipe diameter, improper use of elbows or exceeding maximum
vent length will interrupt the flue gas sensor circuit. Confirm venting and combustion
air is in accordance with requirements in the installation manual.
- If the water has a high mineral content, the heat exchanger may be scaled
internally. This restricts the water path, causing the water to overheat and trip
the overheat sensor (ECO) shutting off all gas flow. Descale the heat exchanger-
See: TWH G1-21 Removing and Replacing Heat Exchanger.
- A water valve, which has not been serviced, may be struggling to keep the
gas valve open. The water valve requires periodic maintenance (every 2-5 years
depending on water quality and use). Purchase a water valve rebuild kit to service
the water valve.
Hot Water Temperature Fluctuates At
Tap?
- Close installer supplied cold water shut off valve (if none installed, install
before proceeding). Open all hot water taps supplied by the heater. Wait 5 minutes
and check all taps. Any water running is a sign of a plumbing crossover. Consult
local plumber or service person for help correcting a plumbing crossover.
- Check for a clogged inlet water filter screen. See: TWH G1-12 Cleaning Inlet
Filter.
- Hot water is very hot out of the tap, requiring a lot of cold water to be
added with it in order to attain a useable hot water temperature. The addition
of too much cold will overpower and slow the flow within the tankless heater,
decreasing it below activation point, which shuts off the burners. The end result
is nothing but cold water coming out of the outlet. See: TWH G1-06 Overcoming
Fluctuating Temperatures. and TWH G1-07 Lowering Temperature.
- The water heater is designed to modulate gas flow to the burners when water
flow varies. If the water pressure in the home is erratic and the water flow is
not consistent while a tap is opened, then the temperature of the hot water will
fluctuate. The minimum water pressure for the home should be 30psi or greater.
For installations on a private well system with the use of a pressure tank, the
lowest pressure range setting recommended is 30-50psi (2.07-3.45 bar). The use
of a pressure reducing/regulating valve before the water heater (directly after
the pressure tank on well systems) is an effective way to maintain constant water
pressure to the water heater. Watts brand 25AUB-3/4” or N35B-3/4” pressure reducing/regulating
valves or equivalent are suggested.
- If the inlet water temperature is not steady then the hot water temperature
from the water heater will fluctuate. The water heater modulates its burners when
flow rate is changed based on a steady inlet water temperature. It does not have
a thermostat and will not adjust to changes in inlet water temperature. Water
lines that run through hot attic spaces may create variable temperatures in the
plumbing.
- If the inlet water temperature to the water heater is above 70?F, the heater
may produce outlet temperatures that are too hot for most users. A temperature
balance shower valve can automatically mix in cold water to reduce such hot water
temperature. This can slow the flow within the tankless water heater, decreasing
it below activation point, which shuts off the burners. In the event of any temperature
instability with the use of a temperature balance shower valve, refer to shower
valve manufacturer instructions for internal adjustment setting. An adjustment
should be made to minimize the amount of cold water the valve is adding.
- The gas pressure also needs to be stable and adequate. Ensure gas pressure
is in accordance with specifications in the installation manual. A gas pressure
reading is needed to proceed further. Contact your original installer or a local
certified gas technician to obtain this reading.
Water Is Too Hot?
- Verify gas type indicated in the rating sticker located on the cover’s right
hand side, coincides with the gas type you are using. NG is a natural gas unit
and LP is for liquid propane.
- The temperature adjustment knob maybe set too high. Lower the setting and
test the water temperature. This dial turns counterclockwise for lower temperatures
and clockwise for higher temperatures.
- Inlet water is preheated. This model does not have a thermostat and will not
modulate flame height in order to prevent overheating. It is designed for a cold
water feed only. Replumb the heater with cold water to the inlet. For solar preheated
applications, use of the model 125BS is recommended. See: 125BS Manual (English
PDF).
- Increase flow rate. Restrictions in the water path can slow the flow of water
through the heater, resulting in very hot outlet temperatures. Restrictive showerheads
and faucet aerators should be cleaned out or upgraded with less restrictive ones.
In addition, the inlet filter on the water heater should be cleaned and inspected.
See: TWH G1-12 Cleaning Inlet Filter.
- If water is still too hot, follow further steps to lower outlet temperatures,
see: TWH G1-07 Lowering Temperatures.
- If the water has a high mineral content, the heat exchanger may be scaled
internally. This restricts the water path, causing the water to boil and produce
extremely hot temperatures. To descale the heat exchanger, see: TWH G1-21 Removing
and Replacing Heat Exchanger.
Water Is Not Hot Enough?
- Verify gas type indicated in the rating sticker located on the cover’s right
hand side, coincides with the gas type you are using. NG is a natural gas unit
and LP is for liquid propane.
- Flow at one particular tap is too great or too many fixtures are running at
one time. Lower flow to stay within heater’s specifications.
- The temperature adjustment knob maybe set too low. Raise the setting and test
the water temperature. This dial turns counterclockwise for lower temperatures
and clockwise for higher temperatures.
- Close installer supplied cold water shut off valve (if none installed, install
before proceeding). Open all hot water taps supplied by the heater. Wait 5 minutes
and check all taps. Any water running is a sign of a plumbing crossover. Consult
local plumber or service person for help correcting a plumbing crossover.
- Inspect the water path outside the heater for obstructions. Make sure all
outlets (i.e. showerheads, faucet aerators) and whole house filters are clear
of debris. Also, the water heater’s inlet filter should be inspected and cleaned.
See: TWH G1-12 Cleaning Inlet Filter.
- The water valve may be dirty, prohibiting it from fully opening the gas valve.
The water valve requires periodic maintenance (every 2-5 years depending on water
quality and use). Purchase a water valve rebuild kit to service the water valve.
- Gas pressure is too low. Ensure gas pressure is in accordance with specifications
in the installation manual. A gas pressure reading is needed to proceed further.
Contact your original installer or a local certified gas technician to obtain
this reading.
Burners Do Not Burn Cleanly; Yellow
Flames When Operating?
- Verify gas type indicated in the rating sticker located on the cover’s right
hand side, coincides with the gas type you are using. NG is a natural gas unit
and LP is for liquid propane.
- Gas pressure may be inadequate resulting in improper combustion. Ensure gas
pressure is in accordance with specifications in the installation manual. A gas
pressure reading is needed to proceed further. Contact your original installer
or a local certified gas technician to obtain this reading. See: TWH G1-04 Checking
Gas Pressure.
- For proper combustion at high elevations the inlet gas pressure should be
adjusted at installation to the value shown below (while operating at maximum
BTU). A gas pressure reading is needed to proceed further. Contact your original
installer or a local certified gas technician to obtain this reading.
Altitude |
Natural Gas
Inches W.C. |
Liquid Propane
Inches W.C. |
0 ft -
2,000 ft |
5.38" |
9.9" |
2,000 ft -
4,500 ft |
4.4" |
7.90" |
Above 4,500 ft consult your local gas provider to see if adjustment
is needed.
4. Ventilation is not adequate. Ensure adequate combustion air is being supplied
to the unit in accordance with requirements in the installation manual.
5. Verify the water heater is vented properly. Ensure the venting is in accordance
with requirements in the installation manual.
6. The AquaStar has burners much like a furnace. It is essential that they remain
clean and are supplied with adequate air for combustion. If the flames burn yellow
or orange it is strongly recommended that the burners be removed from the unit
and cleaned. Once the burners are removed, the fins in the top of the heat exchanger
can be accessed and brushed or vacuumed clean. See: TWH G1-13 Removing and Cleaning
Burners.
Burners ignite without water flow?
- The water valve may be dirty and sticking, prohibiting it from fully closing
the gas valve. This part needs to be periodically serviced (every 2-5 yrs depending
on water quality and use). Purchase a water valve rebuild kit to service the water
valve.
Low hot water pressure?
- Confirm adequate flow rate through the unit. With cold supply shut off to
the unit, disconnect hot outlet side to the unit. Place a gallon jug under hot
water outlet to catch water. Open cold water supply and measure flow rate out
of the unit. With temperature adjustment knob set all the way clockwise, the flow
rate should be close to 2GPM (filling the jug in 15 seconds). If the flow rate
is not adequate, inspect and clean inlet filter screen. See: TWH G1-12 Cleaning
Inlet Filter.
- Confirm the incoming water pressure to the unit is above the required 30psi.
- Inspect the water path outside the heater for obstructions. Make sure all
outlets (i.e. showerheads, faucet aerators) and whole house filters are clear
of debris.
- Be sure to run only one major fixture at a time with this water heater. Opening
too many taps at one time can disperse water flow resulting in diminished flow/pressure
at all outlets.
- If the water has a high mineral content, the heat exchanger may be scaled
internally. This restricts the water path, causing diminished water flow.
Noise when the heater is running?
- Confirm adequate flow rate through the unit. With cold supply shut off to
the unit, disconnect hot outlet side to the unit. Place a gallon jug under hot
water outlet to catch water. Open cold water supply and measure flow rate out
of the unit. With temperature adjustment knob set all the way clockwise, the flow
rate should be close to 2GPM (filling the jug in 15 seconds). If the flow rate
is not adequate, inspect and clean inlet filter screen. See: TWH G12 Cleaning
Inlet Filter.
- Inspect the water path outside the heater for obstructions. Make sure all
outlets (i.e. showerheads, faucet aerators) and whole house filters are clear
of debris. Restrictions in the water path can slow water flow through the heat
exchanger causing it to boil and make noise.
- If the water has a high mineral content, the heat exchanger may be scaled
internally. This restricts the water path, causing the water to boil resulting
in noise and overheating.

Information Source: Bosch Water Heating

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